Clear Libations

This older miniature from an eBay job lot had a good cm or two of evaporation. Fougerolles has long been noted for its Kirsch, which finally acquired AOC status in 2010.

Nose Rich and ripe. Cherry drops, menthol cherry 'Tunes' lozenges, cherry gummies (sour and non-sour), cherry wood. Very round, super aromatic without attacking the nose at all. Blind, this has the same general (still?) signature as the KeT quetsch, I would bet money on the identity. I like this a lot, although it is a bit more rustic compared to the others.

Palate Punchy but a tad muted at first, perhaps reduced by strength. With water, mineralic, powdery, at first, then jammy cherry, a touch of tannic cherry skin, cherry menthol lozenges, and an old smoking jacket. Flavour-wise it's a touch hollow. Quite a nice oily finish though, holding on medium long.

Comments It falls down on the palate, but still rather good. I love that there is a shared identity between this and their plum distillate, while not sharing any "flavour" notes. Perhaps not in the best condition given the evaporation. If the quality is anything like this in today's bottlings, this is a steal.

Price unknown, but €31 per 70cl on the 2019 price list.

Score^?6/10

Gölles claim 10kg of fruit per liter. Rested 2 years in glass.

Nose Slightly more sour, brighter than [the Ferme Chassard] more on high quality cherry yoghurt with sweet and sour cherries. Actually lots of dark cherries now too, very fresh and ripe ones. More nuanced than [the Ferme Chassard], also moving in a slightly more floral cherry blossom direction, and cherry pits. Like this a lot, although it's a hair quiet.

Palate Mild arrival, suggesting a lower strength, and quiet at first before stretching out nicely on that dark cherry yoghurt, becoming sweeter at first, cherry gummies, then a touch tannic, on cherry skins. The finish is medium long, with a touch of menthol, cherry wood, and black pepper. It drinks best without water.

Comments Very well made, aromatic and tasty. Asking for just a little higher strength, 48%?

Price around €70 per 70cl.

Score^?7/10

Sour cherries (meggy) are perhaps more common in the world of pálinka, but this one is from a more typical cultivar.

Nose This one is quiet, and fairly neutral. I would struggle to say this has anything to do with cherry. Raw asian pear, almonds, lemon juice? A little alcohol nip. Perhaps cherry stones if I'm reaching. It can take a drop of water, which gives a touch more sweetness.

Palate Relatively hot, and again relatively little to do with cherry. Raw asian pear, becomes quite spicy. I don't like this unfortunately. It's a bit of a mess. A drop of water does help, and there is the faintest suggestion of cherry, with an emphasis on suggestion.

Comments This one just did not stand a chance. At best we can say the nose isn't too bad, and it can take a little water. At least it's fairly inexpensive. We have Savanya's apricot, so they have another chance!

Price around €20 per 50cl.

Score^?3/10

Not sure about the vintage, but probably the 2008 or 2009, rested for 12 or so years.

Nose This is delicious. Closer to [the Gölles] now, but with the volume turned up a bit. It feels quite dense, concentrated and pure. Full of dark, ripe cherries, compote, yoghurt, a few sour cherries too. Certainly blossom as well, and perhaps a cherry hand cream. It's just a hair spiky, but we'll see about water. It certainly takes a drop, remaining delicious, with cherry sherbet and uncooked pastry [Ed: is this a Rochelt signature?] joining. The best nose here but only just ahead of [the Gölles].

Palate Neat, again really rather concentrated. Perfumed at first (blossom), gradually unfurls on sweeter dark cherry compote. With water it unwinds a bit, again on blossom at first, then fruit, rather creamy and sweet. The finish is medium long, a touch salty, mineral, ethereal. This screams Rochelt to me. [Ed: not wrong.]

Comments I would buy the Gölles, even if this shows a touch more finesse and volume – not enough to earn a higher score.

Price around €280 per 70cl.

Score^?7/10