A Bag of Brut de Colonne
June 17, 2023
It's hot, so let's try some eaux-de-vie de canne à sucre from the French carribean, better known as rhum agricole. The twist: they're all at hair-raising still strength. Tasted semi-blind.
Bologne (Basse-Terre, Guadeloupe) – Le Distillat, 75.5%
One of the more premium cuvées from Bologne, with a premium price tag. There are several batches of this now; this one is a blend of red and black cane, but there is also a 100% black cane version. Rested for 18 months. Check out Dunder Punk's review for another take on this, and the black cane version!
Nose Almonds, oranges, slightly high toned, a bit closed but noseable at strength. With water, mineral oil and ripe pears in the distance, a little rubber dinghy.
Palate Neat, it's clean but closed. Gets hotter with water at first, but eventually opens up. Very mineralic, salt, rubber dinghy (but nice), quiet. Sloes, and a mild perceptual sweetness (cane juice). Finish is medium, with black pepper joining.
Comments Requires a fair bit of water. Well made, elegant, but lacks some excitement; especially for the price. You have to like this more ethereal style.
Price around €70 per 70cl.
Score?6-/10
Saint-James (Sainte-Marie, Martinique) – Brut de Colonne Bio 2020, 74.2%
Organic juice, still strength. This one hugely impressed the Lone Caner. I had been less impressed until this semi-blind revisit. Nothing better than a blindsiding.
Nose Pungent, briny, slightly burning rubber, slightly nutty, lime and orange wine gums. Feels rather closed, under the veil of the strength. With water, remains briny but the fruity side gains enormously: ripe pears, orange and mango juice. Lots of olives now too. Very nice!
Palate Neat, it's closed but rather palate enveloping, oily. With water, it becomes creamy, and a lovely fruit structure appears, reminding us of Neisson. There is a long development, gradually unfolding fresh orchard fruits and fruit gums, coconut flesh, walnuts, some distant blue cheese, fresh cane and peppermint. Long, elegant chewy finish that clings.
Comments A great surprise. I have tasted this briefly before but was underwhelmed, so did not suspect this was the Saint James. Recommended, but play with dilution.
Price around €50 per 70cl.
Score?7/10
Père Labat (Marie-Galante, Guadeloupe) – Brut de Colonne, 70.7%
Père Labat is the make from Poisson distillery. Ed: score revised from 6 to 7- on retasting.
Nose Very distinctive, frankly easy to identify. Freshly opened tennis balls, slow cooked tomato soup, basil, brine, mixed olives, this is deeply savoury and rather funky, nice! This all remains with dilution, if losing some concentration.
Palate Big, hot at strength, but many characteristics of the nose present. With water, it's not so impressive as the nose, but still nice, rather on tennis balls, brine, and spearmint. With water, quite a long finish, remaining minty, briny, and slightly nutty with a touch of rubber.
Comments Unusual, distinctive, rather good. The 72 hour fermentation is felt, with those sauvage, clairin-esque edges.
Price around €55 per 70cl.
Score?7-/10