Road Notes: Hungary
May 29, 2023
Clear Libations recently visited Hungary. Pálinka is regarded as a Hungarikum, a national treasure, and use of the term is regulated by EU law: no additives, Hungarian grown fruit. Homemade pálinka in particular holds a special status amongst many Hungarians, although not always deservedly so. Moreover, with the prevelance of tiny distilleries operating both as private and contract enterprises, the line is often not clear. Here's a quick grab bag of hastily jotted road notes, pitting the relative giant Rézangyal against the tiny Mályninkai Pálinkafőzde. More to follow.
Rézangyal (Budapest, Hungary) – Prémium Szilva (Plum) Pálinka, bott. ~2023, 44%
A brand distributed by Coca-Cola, wide distribution and relatively well-marketed, widely available in bars. Rézangyal translates as Copper Angel.
Nose Plum candies and plum ice cream. Simple, direct, pleasant enough.
Palate Gentle arrival, becomes a little spicy (cinnamon), develops on crunchy underripe plums. Rather spirity, an impression of vodka.
Comments Solid at this price, but a bit over rectified.
Price around €23 per 70cl.
Score?4/10
Mályinkai (Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén, Hungary) – Csipkebogyó (Rosehip) Pálinka, bott. ~2022, 50%
We sampled these next two at Fehér Sas in Bánkút, a few km from the distillery in Mályinka. If you're in the area, also make sure to reserve a table at the fantastic Iszkor. The distillery is open from 8-12 on weekdays. This one pours a slightly reddish golden, probably acheived by addition of (dried) fruit.
Nose Slightly sharp, acidic fruitiness (reminding me of a high ester Long Pond rum), golden raisins, rosehip tea. Expressive and quite complex.
Palate Nice grip, develops on various teas (Darjeeling and rosehip), raspberries, bark. Long finish, slightly perfumed (rose?), slightly astringent, slightly spicy.
Comments Really nice stuff, love the acid.
Price around €67 per 70cl.
Score?7/10
Mályinkai (Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén, Hungary) – Szeder (Blackberry) Pálinka, bott. ~2022, 54%
This one pours clear. I like that they find 54% applicable here, compared to 50% for the rosehip.
Nose It's all on forest fruits yogurt. Very easy to nose, but not complex.
Palate Clean, brambles, pips, fleshy blackberry and blackberry yoghurt. Long finish.
Comments A bit one dimensional but a very pure and delightful expression of blackberry.
Price around €70 per 70cl.
Score?7-/10