Clear Libations

A collaboration between two cult producers in Calvados region, cider maker Cyril Zangs and calvados maker Groult. Ten months of aging on the lees, wood-fired distillation. Not a lick of wood, so this is not calvados.

Nose Rustic, “farmhouse cider” - blind, it gives itself away immediately. Expansive and easy to nose. Not a lot of depth, just pristine, high strength aromatic cider. A touch nippy.

Palate Follows the nose, this is some great high strength cider! Not a lot of breadth or development, but big hit of rugged cider, a touch of cinnamon heat, apple soap, spiced marzipan. Water not beneficial.

Comments Well made, somewhat simple but very characterful.

Price around £70 per 75cl.

Score^?6+/10

Said to be a visually unappealing apple, but the sow pear was similarly unappealing and we loved that one. Gölles claim 14kg of apples per litre, and 2 years of glass aging.

Nose Much crisper than the [Zangs], ultra 'green' smelling, both apple (say, Granny Smith but also something slightly sweeter and more complex, Cox's Orange Pippin?) but also foliage, particularly pine and fir. Indeed, it's a bit christmas-y somehow. Apple pie in the distance. This is really nice, perfect strength and blend of acidity and sweetness.

Palate Oh, this is good. Arrives very elegantly, lush, waxy, develops on perfectly ripe, crisp apples of several varieties. Perfect strength as well [ed: surprised this was only 43%!], it's big but not at all nippy. Very long finish on stems and foliage, and a slightly saline brightness. Water not beneficial.

Comments This is really excellent, great balance and subtle complexity. Great value too.

Price around €42 per 70cl.

Score^?8/10

Another lesser seen varietal, long a staple in Rochelt's stable. This should be the 2008 vintage, aged in glass for 12 years.

Nose Here more on apple shampoo (but nice!), and high toned apple esters. Salted green apple slices and apples in uncooked pastry. Punchy. Sour apple laces? Simple but good.

Palate Slightly puzzling, a mix of apple shampoo and apple laces confectionary – delivered with a good punch. Develops some bitterness, as the rest continues – good length but not much change. Water helps to harmonize a little.

Comments This one may be divisive. I find it very good, particularly on the nose but the combination of flavours on the palate is not my preference. Certainly a character though.

Price around €120 per 35cl.

Score^?6/10

A Clear Libations debut for this much in-demand producer from the English countryside. The name '1000 trees' derives from the thousand tree, thousand varietal orchard from which the fruit is sourced, close to the distillery. A more recent vintage of this cuvée was fed to the recent coronation cake. Let's check if it's fit for a king.

Nose Quite comparable to [the Rochelt] on first nose but more toward apple confectionary, apples baking in the oven with a few touches of cinnamon and allspice. Slightly ethereal: dewy orchard? Very nice but the volume feels turned down a little.

Palate Slightly spicy arrival, then all of the elements of the nose, mostly on very perfumed apples. A little washed out and hard to catch the details. Develops on slightly sweeter apples, and quite mineralic in the finish too, medium length. Elegant, but a touch muted overall.

Comments Feels a little diluted or overly rounded, but what's there is nice.

Price around £60 per 37.5cl.

Score^?6/10