Pear around the world, semiblind

February 11, 2023

As one of the worldwide staples of eaux-de-vie production, it's time we got stuck into some pear. The aromatic Williams is the traditionally favoured varietal, and makes up four out of five in this line up. So it was quite a surprise that a wildcard animal feed varietal showed them up in the end. We tasted and scored these semi-blind, as is our preference.

Artisani (Rasina, Serbia) – Anteria, Kruške (Pear) Williams, bott. 11/19, 40%

Picture of bottle Artisani (Rasina, Serbia) – Anteria, Kruške (Pear) Williams, bott. 11/19, 40%

I don't know much about Artisani other than they have been making a range of traditional rakija and some wines in the heart of Serbia since 1957.

Nose Quite a rich, ripe, almost candied pear. Honey, pear gummies, sticky pear cake. The sweetness here is nice. Hint of spice, big red gum? Not a huge nose, and quite simple, but good.

Palate Lighter here, quite a thin body and half volume underripe pear. Medium finish, again with a touch of that cinnamon. With time, a bit more character, touch of that honeyed pear from the nose.

Comments What's there is nice, pleasant sweet nose, decently average palate. Let down by the proof I'd say. The lowest score today, but actually a great value, a pleasant sipper. Do check out this distillery!

Price around €30 per 70cl.

Score?5/10

Etter (Zug, Switzerland) – Black Beauty Williams Pear, 42%

Picture of bottle Etter (Zug, Switzerland) – Black Beauty Williams Pear, 42%

On their website Etter state that around 11kg of Williams pear from Wallis are used per 70cl, although this one is presented as a nice little 20cl bottle. It's not clear what makes the "Black Beauty" different from their regular bottling, indeed the only apparent difference is the bottle itself.

Nose Aromatic mix of crisp apples and pears, almost effervescent, slightly sweet/candied. Straightforward but enticing.

Palate Rather fuller than (the Artisani), lasting hit of ripe pear mixed with crunchy underripe pear, rounding out with some sweeter baked/candied pear notes, and a hint of potpourri and cinnamon. Becomes rather mineralic and slightly earthy and saline in the long finish.

Comments Nice bit of personality here, and not hobbled by the proof. It only takes a few percent!

Price around €60 per 70cl.

Score?6/10

Rochelt (Tyrol, Austria) – Rote Williamsbirne (Red Williams Pear), 2013/2021, L.38/21, 50%

Picture of bottle Rochelt (Tyrol, Austria) – Rote Williamsbirne (Red Williams Pear), 2013/2021, L.38/21, 50%

Williams pears often have a reddish streak, but these ones are really really red, apparently. I am not 100% certain about the vintage, but quite sure this was the 2013, rested for 8 years. Rochelt don't mention the amount of fruit used here, but we are ensured they are picked at perfect ripeness.

Nose Not too far from (the Etter), so again a mix of crisp (cooking) apples and pears, but rather waxier, and less sweetness. Later celery and sour pear juice. Takes a little drop of water, slightly sweetening things.

Palate Punchy, bounds open with a fantastic mix of ripe and sour pears, becomes rather waxy and earthy, filling the palate. Tends slightly austere, but still with plenty of juiciness. Very long finish, with those waxy, earthy, pears clinging, great texture.

Comments Very good stuff. Not deep or complex but very satisfying, albeit at a severe asking price – an eyewatering 10 times that of the Artisani.

Price around €160 per 35cl.

Score?7/10

Clear Creek (Oregon, USA) – Pear Brandy (bottled for Aficionados Discord), ~70 bottles, 69%

Picture of bottle Clear Creek (Oregon, USA) – Pear Brandy (bottled for Aficionados Discord), ~70 bottles, 69%

A special small batch from the states' most venerable eau-de-vie producer. Bottled for Aficionados, an online spirits community amongst whom ranks the master distiller of Hood River (Joe O'Sullivan), Clear Creek's parent. Pestered by top-drawer palates for a high proof rendition of their pear brandy, this whopping 69%-er was cooked up from Oregon Bartlett (Williams) pears. Check out Different Spirits' review for another opinion and another pear eaux-de-vie line up!

Nose On first nose-through, the most closed and muted. Ripe pear and pear skins at half volume, fresh emulsion paint, cream. There is power here, but it's very reduced, so time for water. Bringing it to around 50% helps a lot, and the nose becomes rather aromatic, with pears just on the underripe side of ripe.

Palate Neat – big and hot, this must be the Clear Creek. Lots of fresh pear, and particularly pear skin. Very tasty, but needs water. The proof really carries this, rather hot, full of sour pear, pear skin and stem, becoming waxier and crunchier. At the dilution sweet spot it becomes quite ripe, juicy and long, though high toned - reminding me of some uber fruity newmake scotch. Long finish, skins and flesh.

Comments A good case for more moderate proofs - super high strength can make a spirit closed, but water coaxed this out nicely. This is very good stuff but just lacked a touch of personality beyond the volume.

Price around $100 per 70cl.

Score?6+/10

Gölles (Styria, Austria) – Saubirne (Sow Pear), bott. ~2021, 43%

Picture of bottle Gölles (Styria, Austria) – Saubirne (Sow Pear), bott. ~2021, 43%

Besides an outstanding range of eaux-de-vie, Gölles also make fine vinegars. 20kg of pear per litre claimed here, and this one is the rather unusual sau variety, so-called as it was previously only used for pig feed, due to the high content of bitter substances. Rested two years in glass.

Nose Elegant. Waxy, crunchy, slightly underripe pears with floral esters and a gentle spice. Not the biggest nose, but the most refined, complex, and perfumed. Indeed, there are roses and violets here. Rather layered and very nice to nose. Water not beneficial, but it takes a drop.

Palate Gentle arrival, but a lot of body. No overt overripe pear, much more subtle and integrated, almost like a pear wood or pear perfume, if that makes sense. Wax and bitter stem, develops on slightly sour pear, pears kept in an attic, and pear blossom. Almost soapy, but more like the aromas of a high-end soap shop. Long, mineralic finish. Again water not too beneficial.

Comments We have a winner, this is just lovely and somehow dethroned the classic Williams here. Semiblind I was betting this was the Rochelt, fortunately it's almost a quarter of the price.

Price around €77 per 70cl.

Score?7+/10