Clear Libations

Rochelt claim “up to” 80kg of fruit per litre, harvested from southern Finland. Unfortunately Rochelt do not state the vintage on their miniatures, but they confirmed this lot number corresponds to the 2007 vintage, which rested for 13 years. By the way, are there really cultivated rowanberries such that it would make sense to distinguish wild ones?

Nose Large and expressive, at first it is leafy, and earthy – cold damp earth. There is depth and complexity here, but it needs some time and a little water to resolve. Seaweed, lemon zest, almond oil, blackberries covered in mud, a muddy farmyard, and the tartness of rowanberries. Later there is some mint jelly, urinal cake (but nice), marzipan, and redcurrant jam. Certainly the most high volume nose, but if this is the Rochelt at 52% (ed: it is!), it wears the proof well. Love this nose.

Palate Initially, compared to glass B (ed: Reisetbauer), this is a bit less nippy and we have the impression of a more rested spirit, but still a tingling grip. It feels quite coiled-up neat, dark and earthy. With some water it stretches out – the initial punch is on slightly muddled, ethereal bitter and fruity rowan notes. Then we find a lot of tobacco, grass, and some of that farmyard. This leans in a tails-y direction which is really interesting, whether it be from resting, judicious use of tails in blending, or both. It has a very concentrated, dry, austere core, which demands time and patience but really grew on me. The finish is medium long, remaining dry, slightly bitter and herbal.

Comments An immediate standout on nosing the line-up, the palate here is challenging, and took some time to comprehend but is ultimately deserving of a high score. The presentation is gorgeous, but a wooden box for a miniature is a little over the top.

Price around €300 per 35cl.

Score^?8/10

Reisetbauer (est. 1994) has made this since 1996, and claims around 35kg of fruit per liter.

Nose Big, on sweet rowans, almond and marzipan, cherry liqueurs, closer to expectations of a rowan distillate. Quite round, with an impression of mild sweetness, even more so with a small drop of water. A slightly citric edge, twist of orange peel, and very slight chlorine. Certainly brighter and headier than sample A (ed: Rochelt).

Palate Neat, it's a little nippy, then develops nicely on bitter almond notes, and a touch of medicinal phenolics, ripe cherries. This is probably the most approachable glass, with a mild perceptual sweetness on the midpalate. Bitterness grows, in a pleasant way, with a little fresh orange. The finish is medium long, fading on the same notes. A small drop of water is beneficial but take care, it is fragile at this proof.

Comments A brighter more straightforward offering, with a lot of flavour, and rather tasty.

Price around €90 per 35cl.

Score^?6/10

The bottle tells us it is distilled using traditional methods and local ingredients, which is not exactly information. On their website, we learn this is distilled from an infusion of vodka made by the same producer. So, not exactly an even match for the others, but it presents itself as being in their company, and this method is presumably the most common when dealing with rowanberries, being so low in sugars.

Nose Very faint, almost nothing here. Freshly painted wall, a distant pecan, a little plain yoghurt.

Palate Mild arrival, quite thin, very little on the front and mid-palate. Eventually a mild bitterness, some of that fresh paint (but no solvents) and nuttiness. Short finish. Nothing offensive here but almost nothing happening either. Smooth, bland.

Comments As we said, this is somewhat apples to rowans, and it is reflected in the price gap, but considered as a rowanberry distillate this cannot hold a candle to the others.

Price around €35 per 35cl.

Score^?3/10