Clear Libations

Made from Besztercei plums. For whatever it's worth, this one has won quite a few national awards, it seems. Also available at 55% ABV.

Nose Expressive and inviting, plum jam tarts, plum ice cream. Quite floral too (jasmine), a little ethanol. Not super complex, but enough to keep interest. Responds well to water, amplifying sweetness slightly.

Palate A bit nippy at first, starting with a grippy floral, slightly tannic element, eventually giving way to slightly underripe, creamy plum, a tad spirity. Medium finish. With water, slightly more balanced and more of the sweetness from the nose. Remains spirity in the finish, preventing a higher score [ed: this really played higher proof than 40%].

Comments A good nose, less approachable on the palate but still decent. Resolves somewhat with water despite the low proof.

Price around €26 per 50cl.

Score^?6/10

Csalló have been distilling since the early 90s, but my understanding is that their own brand was launched in 2005. The bottle reads Kisüsti, indicating batch distillation in a still with a capacity less than 1,000 litres.

Nose The most muted in this line up. Would I know this is plum? Doubtful. Slightly rubbery, slightly burnt (plum?) jam, rather dark. A crack of black pepper. Not bad, but not very inviting. Water doesn't change much.

Palate Powerful delivery, quite some clout but less nippy than [the Zimek], quickly gives way to quite a strong floral-bitter side: overstewed jasmine tea. Not overpowering, but that certainly dominates. Holds on quite long with that bitter side, becoming more on underripe plum. Water helps here, unravelling the concentrated bitter side slightly, though it remains a bit hot.

Comments You have to like bitterness here! Quite unconventional and hard to score. I don't like the nose nor could I drink a lot of it, but it's interesting.

Price around €27 per 50cl.

Score^?5/10

Kirsch et Terroir is a group of ten producers in Fougerolles, selling their kirsch and other eaux-de-vie since 1970. This particular wax-topped miniature was purchased as part of a job lot on eBay. There are various reasons to believe this one was bottled several decades ago, but I can't be sure exactly when.

Nose Darker, sweeter pluminess (charred?), rather creamy and fat, a touch of burnt orange. Less classical than [the Zimek], but equally expressive. The most intriguing nose here.

Palate Very nice arrival, quite a luscious mouthfeel but also a decent grip. Much more immediately on plum now, both perfectly ripe and a rich plum ice-cream. Great balance. Holds on rather long, remaining fat but becoming drier, not much development but still rather good.

Comments This is the easiest pleasure for sure, love the texture and balance. Very well made, probably on a tiny wood-fired still. Is bottle aging playing a role here? Looking forward to trying their kirsch.

Price €29 per 70cl on the 2019 price list.

Score^?7/10